Day One We'll meet in Florence then head south to Montepulciano. Once we have settled into Poggio Etrusco, we will head to the medieval village of Monticchiello where we will have a demonstration of a dish using farro, an ancient strain of wheat. We’ll have some time to stroll around this charming village returning to Poggio Etrusco for dinner and a lesson from a wine master on the spectrum of wines in Tuscany.
Overnight stay near Montepulciano at Poggio Etrusco www.poggio-etrusco.com/
Day Two This morning we start with a visit to an antique frantoio, an olive pressing mill, for a demonstration and tasting of oils. On our return, we continue the discussion of the artisanal Italian pantry as we enjoy explanations and tastings of olive oils, vinegars (including 30-year-old traditional balsamic vinegar), capers, pasta. Lunch is a hands-on cooking class utilizing the artisanal ingredients.
Afternoon cooking demo in Montepulciano at a renowned restaurant, followed by some time on your own to explore the winding streets of Montepulciano, home of the DOCG wine Vino Nobile di Montepulciano made from the Sangiovese clone Prugnolo Gentile. This wine became ennobled in 1549 when Pope Paul III’s sommelier (things were different then!) named it "a most perfect wine, a wine for lords." We recommend visits to cantine (such as Palazzo Avignonesi, with cellars built over visible Etruscan tombs). Later, we meet for dinner at the restaurant.
Overnight stay near Montepulciano at Poggio Etrusco www.poggio-etrusco.com/
Day Three This morning we head out for market day in Chianciano Terme to purchase the ingredients we need to prepare our lunch. After the market we will return for hands-on cooking class to make Crostini Fegatini, Ribollita, Grilled Sausages, and Crostata di Fichi. This afternoon we have a guided visit of the gardens of La Foce, the estate of Iris Origo. Dinner will be a seasonal risotto, stuffed guinea hen, seasonal vegetables, and meringata.
Overnight stay near Montepulciano at Poggio Etrusco www.poggio-etrusco.com/
Day Four This morning we get an early start to see a bit of Cortona before we arrive for our appointment at noon at the elegant farm of one of the best producers of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. After a visit to the cellars, we will also learn the process of making vin santo, then enjoy a relaxed lunch. Tonight we fire up our wood-burning pizza oven for a hands-on lesson to learn to make the dough and properly stretch out pizza with the classic toppings. Weather permitting, we will eat al fresco. Along with the pizza we will have tasting of a variety of Italian prosciutti and Italian beers.
Overnight stay near Montepulciano at Poggio Etrusco www.poggio-etrusco.com/
Day Five We visit Trequanda and a special macelleria (butcher shop) to learn about the famous Chianina beef. Afterward we pay a vist an artisanal cheesemaker to learn about Pecorino cheese, Cinta Senese (a unique breed of pork), and salumi production. After lunch there will be time to explore the charming Renaissance hilltown of Pienza.
Our farewell dinner is at Mondo X, in Cetona - very special! Cetona is a beautiful little wooded village is at the very edge of Tuscany and home to an unique restaurant. Mondo "X" is in the Convent of St. Francesco which dates back to 1212. This convent was in a total state of disrepair when Father Eligio assumed possession. With a crew of reformed and reforming drug-users, the convent was restored to a magnificent state. The residents then began growing their own vegetables and fruit, raising meat, and learned to cook in an unbelieveably gourmet style. We will arrive early to enjoy the grounds, perfectly maintained by the residents who are learning the trades of gardening, as the others work at cooking and restaurant and hotel jobs.
Overnight stay near Montepulciano at Poggio Etrusco www.poggio-etrusco.com/
Off to Chianti! Our next host/Chef will be Andrea Anichini "A man from Chianti"
Day Six This morning we will transfer to the Chianti area of Tuscany and check into our hotel.
Since it will be the end of October/early November and this is when the olive harvest takes place in Tuscany, we’ll go out to participate in an olive harvest as well as visit a working mill in olive oil production. Later we’ll shuttle up the road to Andrea’s house to discuss seasonal mushroom picking in the area and begin the preparations for a traditional porcini mushroom soup.
Dinner and cooking class at Andrea’s house.
Andrea will be your host today and tomorrow taking us to visit various producers/friends/family living in the area and he will share with you an in-depth, unique “foodie” experience you will not forget!
Overnight stay in Vagliagli at Villa Astreo www.astreo.it
Day Seven: This morning we will spend the morning visiting various local producers and tasting local products (just outside Siena) such as bread, pasta, gelato, wine, meats (visit a butcher) honey and olive oil. Andrea will take you to an organic vegetable farm in Monteliscai, to his family’s artisan pasta shop, to see a local, Italian market, a cheese producer – stopping for lunch along the way. Later, at Andrea’s house delve into the cooking lesson whereby we prepare together a four-course meal together and learn all the secrets to baking Tuscan bread and the use of alternative flours in bread baking. We’ll take a mid-class break to taste wine at Andrea’s cousin’s winery – located just next door. Dinner on the terrace at Andrea’s house.
Overnight stay in Vagliagli at Villa Astreo www.astreo.it
Day Eight: Arrivederci! Transfer to Florence for your flight back to the US or extension in Florence.
A note about the properties:
For the first 5 nights of this trip we’ll be based at Poggio Etrusco - a privately owned organic farm near Montepulciano, located halfway between Florence and Rome. The owners are Pamela Sheldon Johns (a cookbook author) and Johnny Johns (an artist). On 15 acres, this property is an active oliveto (olive tree farm) with over 800 olive trees and production of an exceptional organic extra-virgin olive oil.
The views are breath-taking from every angle. In the distance you can see the charming hilltown of Cortona and Lago Trasimeno; nearby we see the ancient towers of the historic towns of Montepulciano and Chianciano Terme. Poggio Etrusco is located in the Tuscan countryside, but has close access to everything you will need.
Guests are encouraged to pick fresh, seasonal produce from from the kitchen garden and will enjoy homemade jams and preserves from the plum, fig, apricot, peach, and cherry trees at breakfast. The large swimming pool is a welcome respite in the summer months.
Our last two nights will be spent in a historical villa/residence called Villa Astreo. A villa with pool nestled within the hills of Chianti, ideal for a romantic vacation near Siena, Villa Astreo is a dwelling from the 1900's surrounded by vineyards and olive groves, a real treasure hidden in this rich land filled with art, culture and breathtaking landscapes.
The Villa was built at the beginning of the twentieth-century by the Bonelli family using pietra serena entirely worked by hand, extracted from the quarry on which it rests; it is still the residence of family descendants, Francesco e Chiara, and mom Rosanna, who will let you in their home as it does with most guests expected; sharing their daily lives, preparing and offering breakfast and suggesting itineraries and excursions in the splendid settings of Siena.